How To Make Gingham Cargo Pants From Any Pant Pattern

Recently I made a pair of gingham cargo pants following the pant tutorial from Anna Allen Clothing Patterns. Some cutting, some sewing and a few tweaks later, and here we are! Ready to strut my stuff and head out into the world in my new cargos!

Got any outfit ideas for me? Let me know in the comments so I can make the most use out of my latest sewing project. I’m always open to more styling ideas!

Now let’s jump right into the how-tos.

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Approximate time put into this project: 4-5 days, with 2-4 hours put in each day

Disclaimer: I am trying to teach myself the Metric System. I will try to always include both measurements in my tutorials, i.e. centimeters and inches, meters, and yards. I have been using them interchangeably in my everyday sewing life lately, sorry if I switch between the two too often or forget to include them both. Thanks for understanding!

Cutting Your Pattern & Tweaks

You’ll need to make a few tweaks to turn the Anna Allan pattern into the perfect pair of gingham cargo pants.

• The pattern I used has no front pockets. Cargo pants deserve to be over the top in their pocket quantity, so that was a definite first change. Using my shorts pattern tutorial I created a front pocket pattern. Cutting the necessary pieces for each pattern and using the smallest piece as a stencil when I cut out my front pants piece.
• I widened the inseam by 1″ (3cm) to just above the knee, then cut the pattern out as normal.
• I cut thicker belt loops that were about 1.5cm wider.
• I used the same back pocket template for the cargo pockets and cut two additional pieces.
  • You will also need four pieces to make the flaps. The width should be 1-2cm wider than your pocket on each end. The height can be as tall as you like, optionally you can curve the bottom corners as well. Mine were about 3″ (8cm) tall.
  • Cut two strips of fabric 4cm x 62cm (if you’re using this exact same pocket pattern, if not, measure the total length of three sides of your pocket). The extra 2cm on the length was unnecessary, I just wanted to ensure I didn’t have a piece too short when sewing.

Everything else I cut out as normal, however, I did not cut the waistband until I got to the point of sewing it. I have a weird issue with waistbands never being quite the right length if I cut them before measuring the final width.

I also didn’t cut interfacing because I didn’t have enough to do all the necessary pieces. Some spots that needed the interfacing per the directions, I instead cut an additional layer of my fabric for my gingham cargo pants.

Those are all the changes I made, now let’s get into it.

Sewing the Front Pockets

I want to start off by saying that Anna Allen’s instructions are amazing and thorough. Any sewing questions I had were all answered in the instruction pages, she left nothing unanswered. That being said, I will not be walking you through the sewing steps for these pants, only through the changes I made.

If you’re following this pattern, (or any of her pants patterns I’m sure) you can find all of the same steps I made, which I will reference in some places.

Let me know in the comments if you have any questions or if anything is unclear.

To get started on the gingham cargo pants, we’ll sew the front pockets first.

Left photo: Take your front pocket piece and pin it good sides facing to your pant piece. Sew along the curved edge then snip into the seams. Fold over, pin in place, and topstitch. Repeat with the other pant piece.

Take the two back pocket pieces and line them up together, good sides facing, and sew. Cut along the rounded edges, being careful not to go through the stitches you just made. Cutting this will make it fold easier and more seamlessly. This is the back piece you can see in the picture on the right. Repeat with the other side.

Middle photo: Line up the pocket pieces, good sides facing and sew a little stitch along the top and side to secure in place. Before you sew make sure the pocket piece lines up evenly and straight across with the front as this becomes the top front and side of your pants

Right photo: Pin and sew the pockets together, be careful not to sew the pants in this step, only the pockets.

The Front Fly and Back Pockets

The Philippa pants have a hidden button placket, which I began to sew, but really liked the color of my buttons with the gingham, so I explored a little to see what other options I had. That’s when I found this tutorial on her website providing instructions for some of the tweaks she made to a pair of pants. I followed these instructions to create an exposed button placket.

However, I didn’t have enough facing left for all of the pieces, and my fabric was very thin, so I just cut an additional piece of fabric for any piece she mentioned needing facing. But I skipped a second layer of fabric on the waistband later.

I followed the rest of the instructions that came with the pants to sew the front crotch closed.

Next, I sewed the darts on the back of the pants, taking them in an additional 2cm on each dart. I followed the instructions to sew the butt seam and attached my pockets.

Sewing the Cargo Pockets

It was about this time I realized I messed up the order I sewed the pants. When you sew cargo pants you’re supposed to sew the outer seams first, so you can attach the cargo pockets, then work your way through the center front and back steps. Or so I’ve heard. I’ve never made cargo pants before, so please excuse my mistakes.

I was able to work around it by sewing one side seam together before attaching the crotch seam. Pin and sew your pockets to the side. Then pin the other side and repeat the steps to attach the pocket. Finally, you’ll want to pin and sew the inseam.

To prep the pockets for your pants you’ll want to press everything with your iron. Then pin your long strip of fabric around three edges. You do not need to pin it perfectly, there is a note below in bold that gives you a tip on how to maneuver around the edge when sewing. Please read that before you actually sew this step.

After you’ve sewn this in place, you can trim off any overhang and press everything again with your iron. You’ll want to zig-zag stitch or overlock the raw edges, then pin them so they sit directly under the front of the pocket. To finish off the pocket, take the top edge and fold it twice to create a clean finish. Pin and sew.

At this time you can prepare your pocket flap as well. Pin them good sides facing around three sides and sew. Finish off the raw edges then turn everything right sides out. Press with your iron and pin everything in place so that you can topstitch.

QUICK – before you sew, here are some notes for improving this process. 👇

• Left picture: Consider rounding the edges on your pocket flaps. This will make the end result look more professional.
  • You may notice that I sewed a new flap, as these are a little bigger than the ones in the previous photo. This is the measurement I gave you in the first section though, so don’t worry.
  • Before you attach your flaps to your pants, remember to sew two button holes so your pocket flaps are functional and more than just decoration.
• Right picture: When sewing the strip of fabric that goes around the pockets you’ll want to sew very close to the tip of the corner, put your needle down, lift your foot, snip into the corner with your scissors, then turn the pocket, strip, and all. Put your sewing foot back down and continue sewing the strip of fabric to the pocket. This will help you to have a crisper corner on each pocket.

Moving on, to attach the pockets to the pants you’ll want to hold the pants up to your waist first (approximately where the pants will sit on you) to see where you want the pockets to go. Mark that with a pin. Now lay your pants out flat and find the center of your pocket, lining this up with the side seam.

Use a ruler to confirm everything lays straight before you pin it in place. You can use your fabric chalk to mark everything first if that is easier.

When you pin the fabric, fold the raw edge under first. You’ll want to sew only along the outer folded edge. Give the pocket a press with your iron so the expansion of the pocket sits perfectly atop itself.

Pin the top corners down and mark with your fabric chalk .75″ (2cm) from the top. Then sew a rectangle shape as shown in the picture on the right. This will help the pocket to sit nicer without losing the ability to open completely.

Again, remember to sew your button holes before you sew the flaps on the pants.

Pin the flaps .50″ (1cm) above the pocket, facing away from the pocket. Sew a straight stitch, then fold the flap down, facing the pocket, and topstitch.

Repeat these steps on the other pant leg.

Finishing the Gingham Cargo Pants

Depending on what order you sewed your pants together, these steps may be different for you.

• I pinned up the inseam to finish my pants and sewed it shut. You should topstitch it if you can maneuver it through your sewing machine.
• Attach your waistband and belt loops according to the pattern instructions.
• Trim the bottom hem if it’s not even. Then pin and sew your hem according to your desired length. I recommend trying on the pants before trimming anything off.
• Finally, sew your buttons onto the front fly and cargo pockets.

Finished Results

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These are my finished results. The pants are lightweight and perfect for wearing in the summertime or layering over a pair of tights in the colder months. Now that I know just how well this pattern and these tweaks worked, I may have to make a more heavy-duty pair out of a thicker material. Maybe a less green material as well…since apparently I seem to gravitate toward statement pants.

I would love to see what pant pattern you use to make a pair of cargo pants, and whether you gravitate toward a gingham fabric or something else.

If you make this project, tag and DM me on Instagram @doorsandfloorsblog so I can see what you make! Remember to use the hashtag #DoorsAndFloorsBlog

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